I never met Joe Dressner, but I knew a lot of the wines that he imported into the U.S. They were fresh, different, sometimes quirky, but always engaging. These are wines that demand your attention.
A year ago this week, I was in the Loire Valley visiting producers as harvest was in full swing. On the morning of September 17, 2011, I was on my way to meet with one of Dressner’s producers, François Cazin in Cour-Cheverny, but decided to take a detour to stop by Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat’s Clos de Tue Boef (another member of the Dressner portfolio). In front of the small, unadorned winery, there was an old 1950s/60s blue Ford Tractor with one of its headlights dangling from the socket. I whipped out my camera to take a few pictures. Out walked Jean-Marie Puzelat – a round, jolly man wearing overalls. He was laughing, amused that I wanted to take pictures of his “crappy tractor” (cleanest translation I could muster for what he actually said). We chatted, and he apologized for not being able to do a formal tasting, but asked if I wanted to taste through a few wines in tank. I happily accepted the invitation.
I’m sure I’ve said this time and again, but I feel lucky to live in a city that has such a tremendous group of wine professionals. Every time I’m at a tasting, I find myself impressed by the sharp and engaging sommeliers, retail staff, winemakers, and importers — all of whom are more than willing to pour something special for you.
This bonhommie was evident at Monday’s In Pursuit of Balance event. While I enjoyed tasting through the stellar line-up of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from some exciting California wineries, I was simply floored by the camaraderie displayed by the winemakers and professionals in the room for the trade tasting. In one corner, you have Josh Jensen (Calera) pouring a 1998 Reed Vineyard Pinot and chatting with David Hirsch. In the other, you have Ross Cobb (Cobb and Hirsch Vineyards) and Pax Mahle (Wind Gap) exchanging notes. And the mix of new up-and-comers and legends was astounding. When you find yourself tasting Pinot and Chard from Tyler Winery (founded in 2005) , and then chase that down with wines from Littorai, you’re in a pretty happy spot.
A few things that stood out for me: Arnot-Roberts (I may be biased b/c I worked harvest there, but the 2011 Trout Gulch Chardonnay from the Santa Cruz Mountains is crazy energetic, and the 2011 Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Pinot Noir was also showing well (pre-release)); Ceritas Wines (if there was one lineup that was across the board stellar, it was Ceritas. Well done, John Raytek!); Chanin Wine Company; Kutch Wines; Mount Eden; Sandhi; Tyler; Wind Gap.
While it was a great event, I am definitely ready to switch gears, and there’s plenty of opportunity this week. In addition to the events below, don’t forget that it’s Rhone Rangers weekend in San Francisco! Full details on the event here. And congrats to our ticket contest winner, Colleen!!!
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Wed., Mar. 21: German Wines @ Arlequin (Hayes Valley)
Dinner on Monday night involved a lot of spicy food, and some killer German Riesling. Because acid does a body good, and because I need an excuse to learn more about German wines, I’m thinking of heading over to Arlequin to check out Tom Elliot’s import portfolio. Each of these producers will be there, and will be bringing two wines each (including a few reds):
Frank Heyden of Dr. Heyden Ulrike Muller of G.A. Schneider Achim Eberle of Fitz Ritter Paul Anheuser Stefan Bollig of Bollig Lehnert Tilbert Nagler of Dr. Nagler JJ Karp of Karp Schreiber Karin Fischer of Dr. Fischer Barbara Rundquist of Dr. Thanisch
On a total aside, you really need to check out this video of the Mosel from the Guild of Sommeliers. You’ll see why I fell in love with this region when I visited last summer.
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Wed., Mar. 21: Dom. Rouge Bleu @ The Punchown (Oakland)
Blog-savvy winemaker Jean-Marc Espinasse will be pouring three wines from his vineyards from his organic vineyards in the Côtes du Rhône. You’ve only got to look at the pics of the vineyard to get me on board to try out these wines.
K&L’s Eric Story has selected some Loire wines, and a splash of Alsatian wines, to kick-start your spring weekend. I’m particularly psyched about the ’85 Huet Moelleux (see full lineup below).
I’ve only had a handful of Corsican wines, mainly from Domaine Abbatuccci, but it’s enough to make me want to explore the island a bit more. Taste through some Corsican wines from the Kermit Lynch portfolio at SF Wine Trading Co. this Saturday.
Co-owner and former chef de cave John-Herve Chicquet of Jacquesson will be on hand to pour his Cuvée 735. Details a bit hazy, but hey — it’s Champagne. What’s there not to love? Here’s an entertaining video interview of John-Herve Chicquet.
As for the picture here — I took it while passing through Dizy last July. Sadly, I didn’t get a chance to stop by the winery.
Sat., Mar. 24: Corsican Wine Tasting at SF Wine Trading Co. (Bernal)
