SF Wine Blog

Exploring wine in and around San Francisco.


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Psst. Hey kid — want some Cru Beaujolais?

“These days, there is probably no wine that I am more excited about (well, along with the reds of the northern Rhône) than Beaujolais. I drink it at home, I drink it at restaurants, I push it at RN74. I cannot get enough of it.” – Jordan Mackay / Rajat Parr, Secrets of the Sommelier

Most wine fans fondly remember that one wine that made them think, “Whoa, there's a lot going on here!” And from that moment, they're hooked. They start buying wines from different regions, varieties, and producers. They start asking questions about vineyards, soil, and winemaking practices. Before they know it, they've jumped down the rabbit hole. For me, that wine — my gateway drug — was Cru Beaujolais. At their best, these wines display an enjoyable combination of fruit, minerality, and acidity that can be appreciated by everyone from the novice wine drinker to the seasoned expert.

Knowing my affinity for Beaujolais, my friends over at wine app startup Delectable have invited me to talk about my recent trip to the region and host a tasting next Wednesday, September 19 from 7pm – 9pm. I was able to pick up wines from great producers (Lapierre, Foillard, Sunier, Clos de la Roilette and Descombe), including wines from the 2007-2010 vintages. And here's the kicker: you can win an invite to join in on the fun.

Here's how you can win:

  1. Download the free Delectable app for iPhone.
  2. Use Delectable to take a picture of your favorite Cru Beaujolais.
  3. In the comment section, use the hash tag #sfwineblog.
  4. Use Delectable to share your wine on Twitter.
  5. The first three folks to do so will win an invite to the tasting on Wednesday, September 19!

And here's what I'll be pouring on Wednesday (we picked them up at Arlequin Wine Merchant):

  • Julien Sunier Regnie 2010
  • Clos de la Roilette Fleurie 2010
  • Jean Foillard Fleurie 2007
  • Descombes Morgon Vielles Vignes 2009
  • Jean Foillard Morgon 2008
  • Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2010

Hope to see you next week!

Jean Foillard in Cote du Py (Morgon)

 


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Wine Events: Week of September 10

My summer had a couple of unexpected –but very exciting– twists and turns, which kept me away from doing the weekly updates.  But with so many great events coming up, it was high time that I got back on the horse.

I also wanted to share some news I’ve been gushing about for the past week.  As many of you know, I spent part of last year working harvest with Duncan and Nathan of Arnot-Roberts Winery in Healdsburg.  I can’t say enough about these guys: not only do they make great wine, but they are amazingly warm and friendly people.  So I was very excited to see them featured front-and-center in this New York Times article by Eric Asimov.  In this piece, Asimov acknowledges the “superb wines of balance and restraint” coming from Arnot-Roberts, and (rightfully) praises Duncan and Nathan for making wine from an off-the-beaten-path variety, Trousseau Noir.

“Like the best Jura trousseaus, the Arnot-Roberts trousseau is a paradox. It’s pale (almost as pale as a dark rosé) and light-bodied, yet it’s intense, with a firm tannic grip. It’s also energetic, floral-scented and uplifting with a lovely refreshing bitterness.”

I have always had a lot of respect for the risk Duncan and Nathan took in making wine from a variety that only the geekiest of wine consumers is familiar with.  It was a bold move.  The fact that they’ve made such compelling wine from Trousseau (and that a paper with the New York Times readership and clout has praised their effort) should help continue to pave the way for other winemakers to experiment and try to figure out what else California terroir is capable of producing.

It is this possibility of continued exploration that makes me excited about the California wine industry.  There’s an ever-growing sense that we, as a relatively young winemaking nation, are just starting to scratch the surface of our potential.  And the future looks bright!

Congrats, D&N, and thank you!

Arnot-Roberts 2011 Trousseau tank w/ J. Puffeney

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Tues., Sept. 11:  Maximin Grunhaus Tasting @ Biondivino (Russian Hill)

Biondivino
1415 Green Street
San Francisco, CA

6:00 pm – 8:00 pm – $10

Summer of Riesling gets extended at least through Tuesday, as Biondivino hosts winemaker Dr. Carl von Schubert from noted German (Ruwer) producer Maximin Grunhaus.  This is a real treat:  these wines are widely praised as some of the best in the Mosel.  Four wines from 2010 and 2011 vintages will be poured.

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Thurs., Sept. 13:  Pinot In The City @ Golden Gate Club (Presidio)

Golden Gate Club
135 Fisher Loop
San Francisco, CA

6:00pm – 9:00pm – $65 (tix here)

Over 70 Oregon wineries drop in, bringing loads of Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris with ‘em.  Some highlights include Eyrie Vineyards (a historic winery with a stellar lineup), Brooks, and JK Carriere.

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Thurs., Sept. 13:  Importer Acid Inc. Selections @ Arlequin (Hayes Valley)

Arlequin Wine Merchants
384 Hayes Street
San Francisco, CA

6:00pm – 8:00pm – $20

Having tried a good number of the wines in the Acid Inc. portfolio, I’m excited to see what they’ll be pouring on Thursday night at Arlequin.  If you stop in, make sure to say hi to my friend Jay Latham while you’re there!

UPDATE:  I’m excited about this line-up.  Have had a fascination with the Zidarich wines for quite some time now, and I brought a bottle to dinner in DC last week (it was a hit!).  And the Dettori wines are also striking.  A few weeks ago, I had the Bianco at La Ciccia — a perfect place to explore Sardinian food and wine.  

2009 Zidarich Malvasia
2009 Zidarich Vitovska
NV Dettori Renosu
2009 Dettori Bianco
2007 Dettori Otto Marzo

ALSO — Acid Inc. will be pouring wines from Italy’s Casebianche on Wednesday September 12 at Biondivino.   

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Sun. Sept. 16:  Hirsch Vineyards Dinner @ Heirloom Cafe  (Mission)

Heirloom Cafe
2500 Folsom Street
San Francisco, CA

$105 for 6 wines / 5 courses (tix here)

David Hirsch planted Pinot and Chardonnay north of Jenner on the Sonoma Coast back in 1980, when few people thought this area was hospitable to vineyards.  Today, Hirsch Vineyards is considered one of the premiere sites for California wines.  Jasmine Hirsch will introduce the wines, paired with a meal prepared by the Heirloom team.  Full menu below:

MENU

comte gougeres and bubbles
scallops, English peas, carrots, corn, mint
2010 Hirsch Estate Chardonnay
wild salmon, thyme-roasted lobster mushrooms, beurre rouge
2010 Hirsch “Bohan Dillon” Pinot Noir
potato gnocchi, kale, hijiki, fennel sausage, parmesan
2009 Hirsch “San Andreas Fault” Estate Pinot Noir
2010 Hirsch “San Andreas Fault” Estate Pinot Noir
Liberty Farms duck breast, corn spoonbread, bing cherries, mizuna
2010 Hirsch “West Ridge” Estate Pinot Noir
2010 Hirsch “East Ridge” Estate Pinot Noir
simple sweet and coffee


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2012 Travel: Au Bon Manger (Reims)

L’Epicerie Au Bon Manger (Reims, France)

L’Epiciereie au Bon Manger should be every food and wine lover’s first stop in Reims. This small shop –no bigger than San Francisco’s Tartine bakery– has a jaw dropping display of cured meats and cheeses, shelves stocked with artisanal spices and foods stuffs, and a stellar grower Champagne selection. Georges Laval? Yup. Benoit Lahaye? You got it. Marie Courtin, Pasqual Doquet, Emmanuel Brochet? Yes, yes, and yes. David Léclapart? Ran into him at Au Bon Manger the night after polishing off a bottle of his L’Apostrophe.

Aline and Eric, the dynamic and personable husband-wife team behind Au Bon Manger, are nothing short of inspirational. They left Paris four years ago and changed career paths to lauch this little slice of heaven. They hand select every item in the store, can tell you the story of each of the producers, and provide a warm and inviting atmosphere that made this little place feel like a Champenoise version of Cheers.

My stomach is grumbling as I write this post and picture all the great food I hade during my multiple visits to Au Bon Manger:  sea urchin caviar, pork rilletes, some lovely smoked salmon, and heaps of fresh and flavorful cheeses.  I remember the sheer look of joy on an Aussie friend’s face when a well appointed plate of charcuterie arrived at the table. I remember lingering in the store during a torrential rainstorm, chatting with Aline about her favorite wines.  And I remember the silence that fell over the table as we sipped on a bottle of David Léclapart’s mind blowing Champagne.  Whether you pick up a bottle and some fixins for a picnic, or stop in to open a bottle of wine with some snacks, you won’t forget your visit to Au Bon Manger.

L’Epicerie au Bon Manger
7 rue Courmeaux, Reims, France
+33 3 26 03 45 29

More on Au Bon Manger:

  • Peter Liem:  ”The Epicerie au Bon Manger is a welcome and badly needed addition to the Champenois gastronomic landscape….”
  • Le Fooding:  ”…le haut de la bulle en champagne!”


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2012 Travel: How to open a Magnum of Champagne Tarlant

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I like big bottles and I cannot lie.  / You other brothers can’t deny  / That when a mag walks in with a biggy biggy waist and a round thing in your face, you get ….

Well we all know the rest of these lyrics, so I’ll put an end to my ode to Sir Mix-A-Lot

I was reminded how much fun large format bottles can be when I (with the help of 4 friends) polished off a 1.8L bottle of sake at Namu Gajii.  Also didn’t hurt that the food at Namu is amazing (definitely get the stone pot, the ramyun, and burger).

That night brought back memories of my time in Champagne.  In this slideshow, Melanie Tarlant (of Champagne Tarlant) and Anne-Victoire Jocteur Monrozier (proprietress of “Miss Vicky Wine“)  demonstrate how to open a magnum of Champagne Tarlant Zero Brut Nature.

Gregoire Japiot, founder of Silicon Terroir, wisely steps in in the last few frames, to lend a helping hand.